Understanding the independent watchmakers
Posted by AIS Watches on Dec 7th 2022
De Bethune
De Bethune is a high-end watch manufacturer based in Geneva, Switzerland. It was founded by David Zanetta in 1999 and has gone on to make some of the most beautiful watches in the world.
De Bethune’s watches are very expensive; many of them cost more than $250,000 USD.
Hautlence
Hautlence is a Swiss independent watchmaker, founded in 2003 by Jean-François Mojon and Eric Giroud. The name Hautlence was inspired by the concept of infinity, which is the idea of a never-ending time. Their goal was to create watches that would be bold and striking with their unique design and creativity.
The company's team consists of around 20 people who are passionate about creating watches that appeal to customers from all over the world. They also have offices in Geneva and Hong Kong where they produce their pieces each year.
Urwerk
Urwerk is an independent watchmaker that was founded in 1999 by Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner in Grenchen, Switzerland. The company has a distinctive design philosophy centered around the use of a cam chain instead of gears for its movement.
The resulting watches are extremely complicated and expensive; many models have more than 100 moving parts and can cost up to $250,000 USD each.
F.P. Journe
F.P. Journe is a French watchmaker whose name will be familiar to those in the know—the company produces ultra-expensive, handcrafted timepieces that have been sold to celebrities like Nicolas Cage and Robert Downey Jr. The brand’s tourbillon watches are particularly notable for their extreme precision and elegant design, which make them ideal for discerning collectors who want something special.
Founded in 2001 by Frederic Piguet (hence the initials), this watchmaker has only two employees working full-time on its creations: Frederic Piguet himself and his wife Nadine, who serves as their accountant/sales rep/general assistant/nursemaid.
Christophe Claret
Christophe Claret is a watchmaker who has been designing watches since 1984. He is known for his innovative designs and the first watchmaker to create a tourbillon with a gear train (in 1996), as well as the first one to create one with a rotating cage (in 1999). In 2001, he was also the first person to create a flying tourbillon (a mechanism where all parts of the watch are suspended in mid-air).
MB&F
MB&F is a watch company founded by Maximilian Büsser and his wife, Tamara, in 2005. The brand has developed a reputation for producing highly unusual wrist watches that often appear to defy normal laws of physics. As with all independent watchmakers, MB&F uses its own movements: they are made by Dubois-Dépraz SA (DD), one of the few remaining independent Swiss ébauche producers still in operation today. All of their designs draw on Maximilian’s personal interest in airplanes and machines—his father was an aeronautical engineer who worked on projects for NASA during his career—and this passion has helped him create some truly remarkable timepieces over the years!
Ressence
Ressence is an independent watchmaker that was founded by Benoit Mintiens in Ghent, Belgium.
To make their watches, Ressence uses a unique system where the time is displayed on a display ring that rotates around the dial of the watch. This design makes for a very easy-to-read watch face for both analog and digital watches alike.
Vianney Halter
Vianney Halter is a self-taught watchmaker who’s made it his mission to create beautiful timepieces that are also completely unique. Halter founded his brand, Vianney Halter, in 1999 with the intention of making watches that would stand out from the masses—and he’s certainly done that.
Halter’s watches are known for their flowing lines and curved faces; these features give them an almost organic feel when worn on your wrist. He uses materials like steel and gold to create his unique works of art; some even feature diamonds or other precious jewels.
Greubel Forsey
Greubel Forsey was founded in 2004 by Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey. The brand is known for its technical innovations, including the triple axis tourbillon (a type of escapement).
Greubel Forsey is also known for its unique manufacturing process, which involves machining all parts of the movement by hand. As a result, each watch takes close to three months to make.
HYT
HYT is a Swiss watchmaker founded in 2005 by designers Philippe and Vincent Morabito. HYT watches are known for their unique liquid-filled displays, which allow them to show time in different ways. For example, the H2O model features a clock that's made up of water droplets rather than hands, while the Eclipse has an hour indicator that looks like the sun rising over mountains or setting behind them.
These timepieces are designed to be both functional and beautiful—they're meant to be worn as part of your daily life rather than just on special occasions or when you want to stand out from the crowd (although they will definitely do that).
Lift the hood of the independent watchmakers and you’ll find a coterie of horological visionaries crafting the most innovative timepieces in the world today.
Look under the hood of an independent watchmaker and you’ll find a coterie of horological visionaries crafting the most innovative timepieces in the world today. These are small, boutique-style brands that have carved out their own niche by offering something different from what you’ll find on store shelves at Macy's or your local department store—and customers are willing to pay for it.
Independent watchmakers are not part of large groups like Swatch Group or LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy). They often work with small teams and use locally sourced materials to create unique designs that express their individual vision. Their products are usually hand-assembled using traditional methods, imbued with feeling and evidence of care as well as creativity.
Conclusion
So, what does it mean to be an independent watchmaker? It’s not just about the size of your company (or lack thereof) or the amount of money spent on advertising. It’s about finding a way to connect with your customers and create something special for them—something that speaks their language, fits their needs, and touches their hearts.
Think about all the great products out there that have come from small companies: Apple computers, Kodak cameras, Google search engines. They don’t do it because they think big corporations are evil; they do it because they understand how important it is for people not just to buy but also love what they own! That’s exactly why we created this list of independent watchmakers—to celebrate those who are willing to break away from mainstream norms in order make something beautiful and functional at once.